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April 13 2005  Sue Tam

Guillermo Mariotto, Designer Who Scandalized Vatican


Guillermo Mariotto, Designer Who Scandalized Vatican

April, 13th is the birthday of artistic director of the Gattinoni house Guillermo Mariotto.

Having graduated from the California College of Arts and Craft in San Francisco, he started his design career in Europe: Paris, London, then Milan...Guillermo had decided to join the Basile house and worked for the label for two years.

His meeting with Raniero Gattinoni has played a pivotal role in his life and opened the road to haute couture in Rome. At first acient city didn't want to welcome the young and brave designer whose skirts shape reminded St. Peter's, who used image of the Virgin Mary to create a new dress for the model and presented his collections at an Anglican church (all Catholic churches closed the doors for display). And even having changed the crown of thorns for a garland of flowers, Guillermo got under fire for "abusing, just for money, the image of the Madonna."

But fate loves the brave and in 1988 Guillermo Mariotto and Raniero Gattinoni the new collections together that changed the image of Gattinoni's house and even Elisabeth Zellinger de Balkany, daughter of Princess Maria Gabriella of Savoy, ordered him a dress for her wedding day.

His spring/summer 2002 collection featured the masterpieces of the famous artists, including Picasso's "Guernica." "The collection is inspired by contemporary art, because art shows what we, human beings, like best - beauty. I take it out of museums and onto the less beautiful street," - said Guillermo Mariotto before the show.

The designer also hasn't left out the theme of politics and war: the second half of his famous show was opened with the model praying for piece. Next time he depicted the head of Austrian crypto-fascist leader crossed out: "Everyone has to stand up and defend human rights. I am doing it in my own way—not with guns but with skirts."

Guillermo Mariotto autumn/winter collection 2003 was the innumerable success. Red was chosen a main colour to express the connection between cosmos and human body, the unexplored depths of human beauty and complexity of the universe.

After the sudden death of Raniero Gattinoni, Guillermo became his successor in 1993. Now he is responsible for all house lines including pret-a-porter, sportswear and accessories.

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