When director of Gone with the Wind, Victor Fleming, ordered a pair of exquisite lacy knickers as part of Scarlet O’Hara’s attire, Vivien Leigh objected that nobody will see it anyway. “But you will know that it’s there”, was the reply of the true professional, who knew that nothing gives a woman more confidence and perception of her proper sexuality than a set of scrumptious lingerie.

 These days, finesse and fashionability of women’s intimate apparel outbalances its functionality and becomes a female’s weapon rather that a mere element of her wardrobe. The knack of undressing - that is the secret art of today’s fashionistas and temptresses. One of Paris’ stores, Galeries Lafayette, even offered free striptease lessons to its customers, having hired two professional pole dancers to provide expert advice. "It's about learning to undress yourself in an elegant way," said store spokeswoman Constance Dubois. "A way that draws attention to your underwear."

Beauty of the body and appeal to men never abandon a woman’s list of top concerns, causing her recurrent outlays for alluring lace and fancy underwear models. The publishers of Women’s Wear claim the amount spent annually in the United States today for feminine underwear reaches $250,000,000. According to the recent research of French Institute of Fashion, the European lingerie market was worth about EUR 15 billion ($19.6 billion) in 2003, with British female spenders surprisingly leading the list, spending on average EUR 103.5 ($135) a year on underwear. French women took second place with EUR 102.3 ($133.4), followed by German, Italian and Spanish female lingerie consumers. But the French temptresses still spend more than others on bras and panties, and the only reason the Brits surpassed their neighbours was because they buy a lot of nightwear and indoor clothes. As for the age, the study showed that 15-24 year-olds remain the leading group of buyers, followed by the category of those aged 24 to 35. But manufacturers of sexy underwear should not ignore the 55-64 year-olds, who seem to become a more active and growing group of lingerie buyers.

From the beginning of the history women have strived for being attractive and seductive. In ancient Greece it was a stay, worn under the breast line. Over time it transformed into a corset, which was the only primary undergarment worn by females up until 1889, when Mme. Cudelle of France cut out the midriff and created the first version of brassiere. A few years prior, garters were attached to the bottom of the corset and clippings onto the stockings and garter belt was produced. In the 1960s, the times of burst female emancipation, corsets were seen as a symbol of oppression for woman, and lingerie was not considered worthy of being included in haute couture collections. But, although handy pantyhose and bras have replaced intricate garter belts and corsets, the latter nevertheless remain the most popular attributes of enticement.

Today, lingerie is the major part of fashion, having become a must-have item for luxury brands. Within the last few years such eminent designers as John Galliano, Alberta Ferretti, Christian Lacroix, Roberto Cavalli, Vanessa Bruno and many others have launched their own lingerie collections. The image of lingerie is no longer limited solely to its functionality as a cover-up and supporting item or an element of one's personal pleasure or that of one's partner. Today’s underwear is not necessarily worn “under” but is rather proudly displayed. John Galliano has embraced such approach, saying that “the customer who falls in love with a motif can have coordinated ready-to-wear, lingerie or beachwear, a jacket and a corset for example." Marithe and Francois Girbaud unveiled a collection that combined their trademark solid denim pieces with flirty floral prints and sexy lingerie in lime, red and basic black. Naoki Takizawa, chief designer at Japanese fashion house Issey Miyake, launched his collection for spring-summer 2005, exploring the sensational idea of applying make-up to clothing, giving the impression of translucency, which was "resolutely an extension of the ready-to-wear line". Nathali Rykiel, creative director for the label her mother Sonia created in 1968, said their line was the "logical continuation of the provocative concept Rykiel Woman" launched in 2002, which included sex toys, negligees and erotic books. "After being rid of their lingerie, synonymous with being shackled in the 1970s, women have understood today that lingerie can become a beauty accessory," Nathalie told AFP.

The selection of sexy underwear has broadened with the launch of lingerie lines by celebrities such as Elle Macpherson, Jennifer Lopez and Kylie Minogue.

"Even if specialist, low-cost chains develop, there is a search by customers for more creativity, sophistication, special products with strong added value," said Claire Jonathan, director of the lingerie division at the International Lingerie Fair, held in Paris at the end of January.

"Formerly every customer had their brand. Today, the customer flips between brands like they're flipping through TV channels."

Joseph Corre, son of legendary Vivienne Westwood and co-owner of famous lingerie boutique Agent Provocateur, once said that is a woman selects her underwear carelessly then she shouldn’t wear it at all. “A woman wearing a scrumptious pair of turquoise tulle knickers promotes in herself a sexy superhero feeling which exudes itself as a confident and positive sexuality,” he wrote.

The choice of intimate apparel depends on a woman’s style, emotionality, temperament, sensuality, inner state, current mood and other factors. Nevertheless, the majority of ladies try to consider the latest trends while looking for a new tantalizing outfit. Spring-summer 2005 offers a range of predominant tendencies on the underwear arena. Mix of vintage and modern, romantic and sporty, combination of different materials and textures, floral patterns, leopard prints - all this will be featured this season. The most elegant and chic trend of today’s lingerie fashion is the glamour of exquisite lace, fine natural silk, satin and crepe de Chine. Green and violet become the dominant hues.

Retro style, with modesty, classic beauty and aristocratism of Grace Kelly and Jacqueline Kennedy, still remains hot. Panties acquire the look of shorts, with the waistline going up, outstripping tiny bikinis. Faux vintage bras, bustiers with low corsages, silk shorts, retro style hosiery, and nets are all coming back from the distant 1950s and 60s. Pop art is another popular spring-summer trend, inspired by the 60s and 70s, offering a fusion of genres and proportions, geometrical motifs, bright colours, patterns a la graffiti, elastic underwear, and unisex styles.

Exotic, tropical elements, asymmetrical drapery, innovative cut, guipure and lace, orange, peach and melon hues are also the leading elements of today’s haute couture collections.